Saturday, March 10, 2007

No Stranger to Danger Expedition - part 1

While on our research mission in Manila, Dr G and I planned a trip to Cambodia via motorcycle. He would be riding his "cult bike", a 20 year old Kawasaki KMX200cc dirt bike and I would ride my BMW GS1200. We agreed to spend the night of the 16th in Aranyaprathet and cross the border on the morning of the 17th for a week, more or less, in Cambodia. I left Chiang Mai 6 days earlier so that I could complete my goal of visiting all 76 provinces in Thailand on my GS.

The following thread occurred via sms:

Sent: 2/15/07 8:01 PM
From: Frazier, Greg
THROTTLE CABLE BROKE-CAMPING IN JUNGLE TIL LIGHT. GET TWO ROOMS. LAST NIGHT FINED, THIS NIGHT STUCK IN THE JUNGLE. NOW I TAKE PILL-UP AT LIGHT, PUSH.

To: Frazier, Greg
Sent: 2/15/07 8:04 PM
OK, keep in touch. Good luck in the jungle. Watch out for the mosquitoes. BBQ

Sent: 2/15/07 8:09 PM
From: Frazier, Greg
SNAKES-I WILL SLEEP ON THE BIKE!

I ate fresh seafood with friends in Samut Sakhorn on the 15th and left for Bangkok the next morning. I took the ring road around Bangkok as I knew that the probability of hitting a police checkpoint on the ring road during rush hour was low. I’ve been nicked midday on the ring road before. I arrived in Aranyaprathet about 2:00 and stopped at customs to find out what time they opened and confirm that they wanted 3 copies of everything. I found the Nava Phanom guest house, 2.5 km before the border. I booked 2 rooms and as Greg said, I turned the air on in his room - because I’m a nice guy.

I showered, turned on the TV and took a nap. Greg rolled in just at dusk and did smell kinda funny. He mentioned the tiger and I couldn’t help but wonder to myself if it wasn’t a 660ml tiger rather than a 100kg tiger.

We ate dinner and then proceeded to finish the last of the refrigerated beverages and were reduced to drinking with ice cubes. We flew the Tea DrinkKing flag high. As we headed to our rooms, I noticed a strange glow coming from the cloaking device on Greg’s bike. I looked closer and could smell something burning. I put my hand near the device and exclaimed “this is freaking cold”. Greg said it had something to do with the superconductor the drove HPU (hand powered unit) in his cloaking device and that I should never touch it again. Little did he know that the very next day, during the first of many fuel stops, I caught the cloaking device as it fell off his bike. "Greg”, I said, “put this away and start RIDING your motorcycle.

Over breakfast the next morning, Greg gave some tips on writing. We talked about how you feel when you throw your leg over the saddle of an iron horse. We finished eating and jumped on our trusty steeds, brought them to life then headed for the border. I made sure to wear my lucky Buddhas on the outside of my shirt, as I usually wear them inside to give me more protection. Every civil servant that we came in contact with commented positively about them.

I tried to help Greg with the trouble he was having with his motorbike. He had breakdowns daily. I think he rode 200 km more than I did in Cambodia because of his early morning parts hunts / repair sessions. I told him it wasn’t the bike, but that it was he hadn’t become one with the machine yet. I tried as hard as I could to educate him and tell him that he should be RIDING his motorbike, not DRIVING it and that as soon as he became a rider the bike troubles would go away. He countered that if he was a rider then who is the person sitting behind him when he’s 2-up? I replied, “a passenger”. Despite my best efforts, bike gremlins would plague him for the remainder of the trip.















Greg driving his motorcycle



The cult bike














An all too common sight














The cult bike ate the master link and the rear tire ate the license plate.

I think I smoked more cigarettes this ride than any other in the past. I’m comfortable riding at 130 on the GS, the KMX200 ran best at 80 and had an 80 km tank. We stopped every hour for fuel. Out of concern for my friend, when I did ride ahead of him, I’d stop every 15 minutes (20 km) and wait for him to catch up. I don’t want to be accused of leaving the dead and crippled behind again.





Every darned hour!

Coming up? A lovely 10 km mud slalom on the GS

Friday, March 9, 2007

I always wanted to be first at something

You know, "to boldly go where no man has gone before". And I am. Well, at least I'm the first person I've ever heard make the claim that they have ridden their motorcycle in all 76 provinces of Thailand. I'm sure it's been done before but like I said, I've never heard anyone make that claim. I did this on my GS and it took me a while as I was reluctant to visit the Deep South. I was waiting for the violence to subside, which doesn't appear likely to happen any time soon. I had planned a ride to Cambodia with Dr. G on February 16 and this seemed like a good time to head south and finish my objective, bombs or no bombs!

When I left Chiang Mai on February 10, I had already visited 64 provinces and had but the 12 southernmost provinces to conquer. I spent the first night in Bangkok and left for the south early Sunday morning. I hate riding the GS in BKK and leaving early, especially on a Sunday, makes the ride more bearable. Made Surat Thani the next night and stayed in a cheap bungalow on the beach so I could take the ferry to Samui the next morning. The ferry takes 90 minutes and costs 180B from what I remember. Samui is part of Surat Thani province so I didn't have to go there to complete my objective, but I've never been there and wanted to confirm that it was indeed a place that I wouldn't want to spend a holiday at.

Samui, like Phuket, embodies many of the things I like least about Thailand. Lots of big white tourists walking around with their Lonely Planet books standing on corners trying to find their way to the next hot tourist spot. I also hate the tourist prices on those islands. Besides which, I am a very white skinned boy and do not tolerate the sun well at all. In the short time I was there, I saw two different tourists crash their rental step-throughs'. I felt really out of place riding there because I was wearing a helmet and protective riding gear. It doesn't appear that there is any helmet enforcement at all in Samui. Like most other places in Thailand, helmets are those things you wear so that you have something to hold the face shield so you can ride faster.

I made a loop around Samui and was back on the 11:30 ferry. I made it to Hat Yai that night. I hadn't done any research on where I wanted to stay while on this trip and just happened to stumble across this place. Hat Yai is a happening town. Lots of tourism business geared to Malay and Sing people, very few farang spotted.

The next day I was going to ride Thanon Lombert, the road of bombs. I left the panniers in the hotel so I could ride faster and headed south through Pattani, into Naratiwat (the southern most province), crossed the border, took a photo and headed north so I could make a small side trip to Yala. The biggest differences I noticed in the deep south was a very strong local dialect that made difficult to even buy gas, the girls look very Malay - not Thai, and the checkpoints were manned by soldiers surrounded by lots of razor wire instead of cops looking for tea money.






The 3 southernmost provinces - the ones you read about in the news.



Razor wire




It's a long way to Bangkok from the northern border of Pattani.



It's also a long way from Ratchadapisek road to Ratchadapisek beach.

I spent a second night in Hat Yai and headed northwest to visit Satun, Krabi, Trang and spend the night at my buddy Gabe's place on Kamala beach in Phuket. With Phuket out of the way, I only had one more province to go and I woke early the next morning to take the 4 through Ranong. Ranong town is a lot like Samut Sakhorn - everything smells like cat food. Both towns have big fish/shrimp processing plants. Another thing to look for when riding in the south? Stinky fish water/blood dripping from trucks. You can usually smell it as you're coming up on them and get in the other lane so you don't get splashed. A couple of times I wasn't lucky and got hit.

The roads in Ranong would make good motorcycle roads if they weren't shiny, greasy and covered in fish blood. I didn't get to enjoy much lateral acceleration there. From Ranong I headed north towards Bangkok and played leapfrog with a group of Harley boys heading to bike week in Pattaya. They invited me along and told me that I was going to miss a hell of a party. I told them that there is always a party in Pattaya.





I found an interesting place to buy gas in Ranong. I've never seen a self serve coin operated gas pump before.




Oh yeah, I found another province that I'm sure no one else has been to - the 77th province in Thailand. If you don't know where it is, ask your tg to read it for you.

Total km: 6500 including Cambodia with Dr G. 18 days.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

No bombs today

It's over, I rode to Pattani, Yala and Naratiwat today and didn't get killed. Very muslim down there. I don't think I saw any females that weren't wearing head scarves - even saw a few burkhas.

Pretty countryside views everywhere. Nice weather. Nice breeze all day long Partly cloudy so it wasn't too hot. Kind of strange because normally when I see cloauds like these it means I'm going to get wet soon. 2200 km so far and no rain.

Tomorrow I'm heading to Phuket to see Gabe. Haven't seen him in a while. Have to make a small side trip along the way to visit Satun province. Strange looking province map-wise. Only one 3 digit road and only 2 4 digit roads leading into the province from the east. Must be some mountains between here and there.

Pix to follow, when I hit an internet café.

BBQ

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Did I mention...

that I love riding my BMW? 100 hp makes the long highway trips somewhat enjoyable. I rode 700 km 2 days ago from Chiang Mai to Bangkok and spent 2 nights there and left this morning for south Thai. The weather is great - a little cloudy so it wasn't too hot. Tomorrow I go to Samui and the next night I stay in Hat Yai. I will use Hat Yai as my launching point to visit the 3 southernmost provinces in Thailand. There has been a Muslim separatist movement there for a while and they have been blowing things up randomly for some time. I want to make a quick run down the highway so I can say I went there on my motorcycle. By the end of the week I will ba able to say that I've been to all 76 provinces in Thailand. Why am I doing it? Because it's there. Some people want to say they have riddent around the world by motorcycle. I don't know of anyone who has made the claim that they have ridden in all 76 provinces of Thailand.

In search of 2 wheeled therapy

I left Chiang Mai 2 days ago for a 21 day motorcycle trip. Tonight I stay near the ferry to Samui, tomorrow am I'll go over for 1 night. Then I go off to the deep south in search of bombs. After I finish my tour of southern Thailand I am going to Cambodia with Dr G.
I'll post as time and bandwidth permits.

Friday, February 2, 2007

Money

Money, get away. Get a good job with good pay and you’re okay. Money, it’s a gas. Grab that cash with both hands and make a stash. New car, caviar, four star daydream, Think I’ll buy me a football team.
Money, get back. I’m all right jack keep your hands off of my stack. Money, it’s a hit. Don’t give me that do goody good bullshit. I’m in the high-fidelity first class traveling set and I think I need a Lear jet.
Money, it’s a crime. Share it fairly but don’t take a slice of my pie. Money, so they say. Is the root of all evil today. But if you ask for a raise its no surprise that they’re giving none away.
Pink Floyd, Dark Side of the Moon

There are two kinds of money, MY MONEY, YOUR MONEY and OTHER PEOPLES MONEY (OK, so I can’t count). Here are some of my thoughts about MY MONEY.

The community of riders here in Chiang Mai are pretty good bunch of guys. I haven’t ridden with each and every rider here but I’ve met a lot of them and haven’t met any that I’m not on friendly terms with. I know that if I was in trouble and needed help, I could call upon my fellow GT riders and I believe they would do their best to help me out. If I was called upon for assistance by a fellow GT rider, I would do my best to help them out as well. We have to stick together because in Thailand, we are all visitors. We are here as guests and I am happy to be a guest of the Kingdom. We have almost no rights here and the laws and business practices are stacked against us so we have to help each other.

There’s been a falling-out between two of my friends here in Chiang Mai and frankly I’m at a loss as to what to do about it. I don’t think there’s anything I can do to help, but I felt like putting my thoughts online. It seems that one good hearted friend (I’ll call him the LENDER) helped out another friend (let’s call him the BORROWER) when his Dad was dying and he needed to travel to another country to visit him. From the LENDER’s account, he loaned a good chuck of change so the BORROWER could buy air tickets for himself, his son and girlfriend to travel and see his Dad before he died. The LENDER also claims that he has “helped” the BORROWER in the past by purchasing and bringing motorcycle parts and accessories from the US for him. I haven’t confirmed any of this with the BORROWER, but the BORROWER has confirmed the validity of the debt in emails that I’ve been bcc’ed on. These events began some six odd years ago.

Myself? I learned long ago that if you want to keep someone as a friend then you should never loan them money and you should never live with them. Before I moved here 2.5 years ago, there were several people I worked with who owed me money but promised to pay me back. In one case, I had to make repeated attempts to collect the debt and the debtor made me feel like a heal because I was asking for MY MONEY to be paid back. He finally drove over to my son’s house and delivered MY MONEY in cash but it did damage our relationship and we haven’t communicated since then, too bad.

Case 2: When a “friend” from work learned that I was moving to Thailand he got excited and said that we could make big money selling Stingray leather products on Ebay. Stingrays are native to Thailand and leather products are manufactured here. This friend was a power seller on Ebay, had a good rating so I thought “what the heck, I’ll give it a try”. I did some research here and found a factory in Chonburi province that made Stingray products and bought as many pieces as I could fit in the top case of my BMW. My daughter took them back to the US when she visited and sent them to my friend. My friend did try to sell them on Ebay and was mildly successful. In the end, he sold about ½ of the pieces I sent. I had to continually ask for updates on how sales were going. My friend offered to transfer money to me by paypal, but when I asked him to do this it never happened. I was finally able to collect my share of what he sold after I visited the US last year. I had to drive to his house to collect the unsold products and get a paper check that I then had to take to the home branch of his bank the next day and stand in line to cash. We parted on amicable terms but haven’t communicated since. I sent him a link to my blog when I started it – maybe he’s reading now and recognizes himself? This “friend” had been screwed financially by a former mutual friend of ours. I never thought I would have to ask my friend for MY MONEY, but I did. BTW, I still have some Stingray leather products for sale – if you want to buy a nice gift for your TG, this just might be the ticket.

Case 3: When I was leaving my job and moving to Thailand, a lady “friend” who I used to work with asked me to get her a specific fake Louis Vuiton bag in Thailand. This lady and I were pretty close during the time we worked together. We shared some pretty intimate details of our lives with each other and enjoyed asking each other for advice about our personal lives. Yeah, she was a hot Latino but no, we never made the beast with two backs. If we had, it would have made it much harder to maintain our close friendship. (This would probably make a good third rule about friends – don’t sleep with them – once you do it would be hard to go back to just being friends). I found the bag she wanted, bought it with MY MONEY and sent it back to her in the US. I can’t remember how many times I had to ask for MY MONEY. She told me about how she was having trouble getting refinancing on her $750,000 house and the $75 would be coming soon. A few months later, she was still having trouble and told me that she “didn’t think I really needed the money right now”. Yeah, it was only $75. I’ve had bar tabs bigger than that. Am I greedy? No, I just wanted MY MONEY. If she had asked for it as a gift, I probably would have given it to her. The same trip back to the US I stopped by her office and picked up an envelope she left at reception for me. I haven’t heard from her since. Too bad, we really were good friends. The whole having to ask for MY MONEY thing ruined a good friendship. I don’t know why, but she really seemed to resent my asking for MY MONEY.

Case 4: I’m not going to document each and every case where things have turned bad because I had to ask for MY MONEY. Enough, pau lao.

Getting back to my two friends here in Chiang Mai, I really don’t want to choose sides. I'd like to maintain my middle ground. I’d like to remain friendly with both of them.

The BORROWER is a very well known in the GT and for the most part, a respected member of the community. The LENDER says he’s going to take this debt public – I think this could tarnish the BORROWER’s street cred although there is already a large circle of our friends who know about this. After all, this has been going on for SIX YEARS. Secrets like this don't live very long in a small town like Chiang Mai. The LENDER could come off looking like an asshole if he doesn’t play his cards just right. He could very well and up looking like a prick because he’s asking for HIS MONEY. Doesn’t make sense, does it?

Is the LENDER a prick? I don’t think so. If the BORROWER was making an effort to repay the debt I believe the LENDER would be happy. From what I can see, the BORROWER has a good lifestyle (my opinion) could repay this debt with a little sacrifice. It’s hard to not come off as being abrasive when you’re asking for YOUR MONEY. I know, I've had to do that too many times. I think it’s important to do everything you can to collect your debts without name calling, etc. That just makes you look bad. My advice? In my experience, taking the high road won’t actually help you in your collection efforts but it can keep your rep from being tarnished.

Rules: If you want to keep someone as a friend, don’t loan them money and don’t live with them. I was approached by the BORROWER once, in the middle of a group ride, and told that he would need to “borrow” some money from one of us in order to be able to finish his trip. I pushed off his request on another rider and dodged that bullet. I’ve since decided that I would rather have him pissed off at me because I refused to “loan” him MY MONEY than risk ruining all of the goodwill that we share because I would have to ask him to pay me back MY MONEY. Am I a cold hearted prick? Some would say yes – even without reading this piece.

I have a friend from San Diego that lives here in Thailand and we’ve had this exact same discussion. In the past, he’s asked me for a loan of MY MONEY. I told him no. Once I gave him an airline ticket and no, I don’t expect anything in return. I don’t think he’ll ask for MY MONEY again. Am I a cold hearted prick? Maybe. This friend has a Thai wife and they live what I would call a Thai lifestyle, living from paycheck to paycheck. Only worrying about today’s bowl of rice and not preparing well for their future (my opinion, ok? Sorry AJ). Why does that matter? If he was sacrificing what I consider luxuries like UBC, a brand new car payment and a brand new house payment (things I don’t have) I might feel differently about it. Knowing what their lifestyle is, I wouldn’t feel good having to ask for him to return MY MONEY. He still calls me and we still remain friends.

Loaning money to farang friends should not be confused with “loaning” money to Thai’s. Whenever you “loan” money to a Thai – consider it a gift that will never be reciprocated. If you have a TG, you know what I mean.

These are just my thoughts. After all, that’s what a blog is for – to publish your thoughts. Remember, opinions are like assholes. Everybody has one and they all stink. If you don’t like my blog, don’t read it - write your own.

Feel free to comment, just click the Post a Comment link below. Really, I'm looking forward to hearing what you think. You can post anonymously.